Welcome in the dictionary of the terms Long Board surfing
Wipe Out
Wipe Out
Both pros and beginners wipe out.
It is unavoidable.
When you do, just let go. Panicking and excessive movement in the water just wastes oxygen and strength.
Relax and wait until after the wave’s impact to regroup and float to the surface.
A wipeout on a regular sized wave may have you under water for up to 10 seconds.
Bigger waves can keep you down 15 to 20 seconds.
If you know you are going to fall, try to fall into the wave and away from your board.
This way you will avoid the impact of being struck by the lip of the wave or your board.